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  • Cultural Safaris in Kenya

    Cultural Safaris in Kenya

    Located in the eastern part of the African continent, Kenya is one of the best destinations to visit for cultural encounters. Cultural safaris offer travelers a unique opportunity to go beyond the traditional wildlife experience and immerse themselves in the country’s rich heritage. With over 40 ethnic groups, Kenya is a vibrant composition of traditions, music, dances, art, and ways of life that have been preserved for generations.

    These safaris enable visitors to interact with communities such as the Maasai, Samburu, Turkana, and Swahili, gaining first-hand insights into their customs, crafts, cuisine, and stories. From visiting Maasai homesteads and witnessing traditional ceremonies to exploring the coastal Swahili culture in Lamu and Mombasa, cultural safaris showcase the heart and soul of Kenya. They are not only enriching and educational but also support local communities, making them an essential part of a well-rounded Kenyan adventure. Kenya is diverse in languages with about forty of them divided into three communities the Maasai, Samburu, and Turkana.  These three communities can be described briefly as;

    1. The Maasai

    The Maasai are traditionally semi-nomadic and entirely dependent on their livestock. Recently, they tend to be fairly dormant, occupying small settlements of 8-15 houses protected by thorn bushes or fencing.

    Livestock, including goats and sheep but especially cattle, are the primary source of income for the Maasai. A visit to the Maasai Mara villages can be customized with a Kenya safari to Masai Mara Game Reserve, which is popular for the annual wildebeest migration.

    1. The Samburu

    The Samburu are closely related to the Maasai. Both arrived in Kenya from the upper Nile region in present-day South Sudan in the 16th and 17th centuries, and they speak a common language – Maa. The traditional Samburu diet consists of milk and blood extracted from their cows.

    Meat is only served on special occasions. Dancing plays a significant role in Samburu culture and is similar to that of the Maasai people, with men dancing in a circle and jumping high from a standing position. Participating in this dance is such an amazing experience, though very challenging.

    1. The Turkana

    The Turkana are an important pastoral community in northern Kenya. Like other herders, they traditionally lived a nomadic life, always moving from one place to another depending on the availability of pasture and water for their animals.

    Although trading and employment are increasingly important (many Turkana men work in the security services or as guards and night watchmen), the old cattle culture is still vitally important. Fishing is also a major source of food for those living close to Lake Turkana.

    Top cultural events you wouldn’t miss in Kenya

    If you want to experience the uniqueness and hospitality of the Kenyan culture, then these festivals are part of what you can choose to attend while in Kenya.

    Safari Rally

    The Safari Rally is one of the most popular events in the Kenyan calendar, with both the young and old alike. Since its onset in 1953 in honor of Queen Elizabeth, the KCB Safari Rally is an internationally acclaimed event and a significant part of Kenya’s history.

    It is a sport loved by the Kenyan people and draws the attention of people of different ages and cultural both locally and internationally. A fast-paced race through the wilderness of Kenya where drivers have to negotiate through rough terrains and assortments of wildlife. The Safari Rally is one sport that attracts many visitors alike and has become a part of Kenyan culture.

    Lamu Cultural Festival

    Every year Lamu comes to life during the Lamu Cultural Festival, as Kenyans come together to celebrate both the past and future, the beliefs and traditions that are the heart and soul of this community in the lovely, enchanting island of Lamu.

    An ancient Swahili township, Lamu, is a World Heritage site, and the cultural festival offers an insight into how life in the old days was in terms of architecture and lifestyle.

    The event is usually held annually in November, with exciting activities such as traditional Swahili poetry, henna painting, donkey races, and dhow sailing, culminating with a traditional Swahili wedding and a chance to enjoy various Swahili dishes.

    Lake Turkana Festival

    The uniqueness of this annual festival that is usually held around May is the fact the festival helps to overcome barriers that create a mutual understanding of different cultures and promotes peaceful coexistence.

    The event features unique performances and demonstrations of ten different ethnic communities that live in the Lake Turkana region. With traditional dances and a chance to taste various foods from these communities as well as being able to visit their unique huts and get a taste experience of life in Loiyangani in Northern Kenya.

    The presentation of the customs and living conditions of the ten tribes, their spectacular traditional costumes arts and crafts, dances, and music is a fascinating experience that leaves one with a positive perception of the Lake Turkana region.

    Mombasa Carnival

    Mombasa Carnival is the most popular festival in Kenya. The festival features numerous traditions and ethnicities in Kenya. It is a lively festival that takes place in November in Mombasa.

    Mombasa, known as the major cultural hub in East Africa, depicts both the Arabian and African cultures uniquely. The festival features multicultural floats, music, dance performances, and colorful parades with people in amazing costumes.

    Tourists who visit Mombasa during the festival have the opportunity to shop for souvenirs and enjoy delicious Kenyan dishes in the food stalls set up on the streets of Mombasa.

    Whether it’s joining in a traditional ceremony, exploring local markets, or trying indigenous foods, cultural safaris in Kenya provide unforgettable encounters that enrich your journey with meaning and connection.

  • Recommended Homestays for Local Experiences in East Africa

    East Africa boasts a plethora of stunning homestays and memorable local experiences that provide travellers with an authentic glimpse into African life. For those seeking more than just wildlife and national parks, immersing oneself in local family stays, participating in community tours, or engaging in everyday village activities can significantly enhance the uniqueness of your journey.

    Unlike large hotels or opulent lodges, homestays present an opportunity to reside, dine, and exchange stories with genuine individuals in their own homes. You will savour their traditional cuisine, gain insights into their lifestyle, and experience the warmth of African hospitality. Numerous travellers attest that these local interactions constitute the highlights of their adventures.

    This guide will delve into the finest homestays and community experiences available in Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya, and Tanzania. Additionally, we will outline how Primate Safari Experiences, a reputable tour operator, can facilitate a safe and seamless organization of your visit.

    Nshenyi Cultural Village (Uganda)

    Nestled in the picturesque hills of southwestern Uganda, near the borders of Rwanda and Tanzania, lies the Nshenyi Cultural Village, a hidden treasure. This tranquil farm offers visitors the opportunity to stay with a local Bahima family and immerse themselves in the lifestyle of cattle herders.

    Guests can engage in activities such as milking cows, savouring fresh milk, strolling through banana plantations, visiting local schools, or enjoying stories shared around a campfire. Village children perform traditional dances and songs for the visitors. The traditional huts are well-maintained, comfortable, and constructed in the local architectural style, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of a serene African village where time seems to stand still and smiles abound.

    Batwa Trail Experience (Uganda)

    The Batwa were once known as the “pygmy forest people” who lived in the rain forests near Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. After being moved from their ancestral land, some Batwa now offer a guided cultural experience that lets you walk in their footsteps during your gorilla safari in Uganda.

    You can learn how they hunted with bows, made fire without matches, cooked in clay pots, and danced in caves. Former Batwa hunters and elders act as your guides. While the Batwa Trail is a day experience, you can stay in nearby community lodges that support Batwa families. This is more than a tour—it’s a deep and emotional lesson in survival, respect, and culture.

    Lake Victoria Island Homestays (Uganda and Kenya)

    There are many small islands on Lake Victoria where travellers can enjoy quiet homestays with fishing communities. In Uganda, Banda Island and Bulago Island are known for local guesthouses. In Kenya, Rusinga Island and Mfangano Island offer similar peaceful experiences.

    You can go fishing with locals, join cooking sessions, take boat rides at sunset, and explore ancient rock art. Most islanders are from the Luo tribe, known for their music and friendliness. This is perfect for travellers who love water, peace, and authentic experiences.

    Maasai Village Stays (Kenya and Tanzania)

    The Maasai community is renowned for its rich traditions, distinctive red garments, and warrior heritage. Various groups now invite guests to experience their way of life for a night or two. These experiences can be found in Kajiado (Kenya) or in proximity to Ngorongoro and Serengeti (Tanzania).

    Visitors have the opportunity to engage in cattle herding, learn beadwork from Maasai women, participate in traditional dances, and gather around the fire with elders who recount ancient stories. Accommodations are provided in traditional huts (enkangs) constructed from mud and sticks, featuring basic bedding and local cuisine. This experience transcends typical hotel stays—it offers an authentic glimpse into the life of a proud African tribe, creating unforgettable memories.

    Swahili Homestays in Lamu and Zanzibar (Kenya and Tanzania)

    The coastal regions of East Africa present a vibrant culture, delectable cuisine, and gentle breezes from the Indian Ocean. Accommodations in Lamu (Kenya) and Zanzibar (Tanzania) allow guests to reside in traditional Swahili houses featuring intricately carved doors and rooftop tea areas.

    Visitors can acquire skills in preparing coconut rice, donning a kanga, participating in dhow boat excursions, or touring spice plantations. The Swahili community takes pride in their Islamic heritage, poetry, and hospitality. Numerous homestays are located in Stone Town (Zanzibar) and Shela (Lamu), both rich in history and allure.

    Rwanda Cultural Village Stays (Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village)

    Located near Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, the Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village offers an enriching cultural experience. Established by former poachers who have transitioned into wildlife conservationists, this village educates visitors about Rwandan culture.

    Guests can engage in activities such as drumming, dancing, banana beer production, and learning about traditional medicine. The village’s guesthouses provide basic accommodations and local cuisine. By visiting, you contribute to gorilla conservation while immersing yourself in the culture of the communities that coexist with these magnificent creatures. This destination is particularly popular among travellers seeking gorilla tracking experiences.

    Chagga Homestays near Mount Kilimanjaro (Tanzania)

    The Chagga community resides on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, recognized for their agricultural practices and subterranean irrigation techniques. Certain families within the Chagga offer homestay experiences in their villages close to Moshi.

    Visitors can trek through coffee plantations, participate in coffee roasting, explore Chagga caves that were utilized during tribal conflicts, and appreciate traditional music. The local cuisine features dishes such as banana stew, regional beer, and sweet potato preparations. This destination is ideal for tourists looking to climbing Kilimanjaro or anyone seeking to relish the refreshing mountain atmosphere.

    Turkana and Samburu Village Visits (Northern Kenya)

    For those seeking adventure, northern Kenya presents an unspoiled cultural experience and breathtaking landscapes. The Turkana and Samburu communities provide simple homestays along with immersive cultural activities.

    Travelers can enjoy camel rides, observe traditional dance performances, discover the art of body decoration and beading, and learn about the survival techniques of the inhabitants in arid regions. These desert landscapes feature expansive skies, vibrant attire, and welcoming yet dignified locals. Accommodations may include huts without electricity, but the true reward lies in the knowledge gained from Africa’s desert tribes.

    Why Choose a Homestay or Local Experience?

    Staying in homestays and engaging in local experiences fosters a profound connection with the community. You do not merely observe Africa; you experience it. Your financial contributions directly support local families and aid in the preservation of their cultural heritage. Additionally, you have the opportunity to acquire new skills such as cooking, dancing, or farming.

    These excursions are secure, hygienic, and well-guided when properly arranged. They serve to dismantle the barriers between tourists and residents. You may arrive as a guest, but you depart as a friend.

    Let Primate Safari Experiences Plan It for You

    If you are uncertain about how to begin, allow Primate Safaris to assist you. This esteemed tour company is among the best in East Africa, specializing in linking travellers with reliable and secure homestay options in Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya, and Tanzania.

    With their knowledgeable local guides, reputable accommodation partners, and a profound respect for community traditions, they ensure that every experience is genuine, enjoyable, and memorable. Whether you wish to milk a cow in Uganda, engage in traditional dance with the Maasai, or savour Swahili cuisine in Zanzibar, Primate Safari Experiences can facilitate all of these opportunities.

    Conclusion (Travel Like a Local, Not Just a Tourist)

    When traveling to East Africa, immerse yourself fully in the experience rather than merely passing through. Engage with a local family, partake in a meal, dance beneath the stars, and hear tales from the elders. These moments will create lasting memories.

    Homestays and authentic local experiences are the essence of travel in East Africa, offering simplicity, warmth, and vibrancy. With the assistance of Primate Safari Experiences, your adventure will be secure, seamless, and genuinely memorable.

  • Guide to Visiting Myanmar

    Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, is a relatively new country. Until few years ago it was difficult to get a visa, and even so it was limited to a week. Considering that this is the largest country in the South East Asia and its lack of infrastructures, those days were barely enough to touch base in the 2-3 tourist destinations designed by the government.
    The military dictatorship ruling the country since its independence in the ’62 has recently started loosening up, opening to tourism and making a visa easier to get and lasting longer. Now some areas are still off-limits due to safety concerns but visitors can spend 28 days in Myanmar. Read our article on how to get a visa for Myanmar.

    Our trip to Myanmar

     

    Places We Visited

     

    Local currency

     

    The currency in Myanmar is the Burmese Kyat (pronounced chat). The exchange rate is little over 1000 Kyats to 1 US$ which is pretty handy for calculations.

    Card payments and ATM machines are virtually non existent, with some exceptions in the main tourist areas. Even though this is quickly changing, it’s advisable to bring all the money you’ll need in US dollars. Notes will have to be new, clean and unmarked or they won’t be accepted. Money can be changed at banks and official exchange offices, sometimes even at some hotels. Just avoid dodgy black market sites offering good rates.

    Payments are usually made in Kyats even if hotels, tour operators, taxi drivers and larger restaurants accept US dollars.

    Weather in Burma: When to Go

    The weather is warm and dry between November and March, in April heat and humidity build up preceding the rain season which ends at the beginning of October. In order to avoid the peak of high season, with its higher rates and crowds, it’s best to visit the country in November.

    Burma or Myanmar?

    The ruling military junta changed its name from Burma to Myanmar in 1989, a year after thousands were killed in the suppression of a popular uprising. Rangoon also became Yangon. (from BBC News)

    I’ve always found this confusing… and partially still do. Essentially the military junta changed the name to drastically cut from the British colonial past. Which, to put it simple, sounds like a good decision taken by bad people. A Burmese man in Bagan told us that while “Burma” represents a region and the largest ethnic group while “Myanmar” the whole country. Reliable sources on internet report instead that both names have the same etymological root,  the former name is the spoken form, the latter is the formal, written form. It’s all politics I guess!

  • Berlin Dark History

    Before visiting Berlin I accidentally came across a number of documentaries that ended up defining the aim of my visit. Starting with “the Life of Others“, I continued with more material on the infamous Stasi and the Nazis until I came to a very simple conclusion. Something obvious I never noticed: for nearly 60 years in a row Berlin has been the epicentre of the most ruthless dictatorships of Europe’s modern history. Left, Right, Black and Red, the flags changed and so did the methods, but not the level of oppression people in Berlin have been victim of.

    Stasi stays for Ministerium für Staatsicherheit, the Ministry for State Security (in most of English leaflets it will be mentioned as MfS), and was the “Sword and Shield of the Party”. The party being the SED, the socialist party that coordinated directly from Moscow. An incredible efficient and oppressive secret police that terrorised the whole East Germany – and probably more than that – for about 40 years, going from physical torture to a perfected system of psychological, way more subtle and damaging, torture. Their infrastructure was massive: they employed more full time agents than the Nazis have ever had and, most importantly, a widespread network of informant. It is said that one every 6 citizens were secret informers. Try to apply this statistic to your coworkers, friends, family, and you will understand the gravity of the situation.

    I was particularly interested in knowing more about the Stasi, this is where I mainly focused my research, and this is what I want to talk about. It scares me that, while the Nazis belong to my grandfather’s youth and have been thoroughly covered to make sure that nothing like that will – hopefully- never happen again, the Stasi belongs to my lifetime, I clearly remember when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, but little is known and said about them. And consequently, are those agents still around? Are they still in positions of power?

    I don’t mean to give any history lesson, or write a document of any scientific relevance, but I want to raise the attention of this bit of history that is being slowly and quietly wiped under the carpet, and helping you find the most interest spots and museums in Berlin where you can get to know more.

    If you want to know more here is some material you might be interested to:

    The Lives of Others (The movie I mentioned before)

    Stasiland: Stories from Behind the Berlin Wall(Brilliant book by Anna Funder) (Kindle edition)

    The File (A book of a man who’s lived in Berlin in 1978 for research purposes, and went back 15 years later to find his own Stasi file)

    Stasi: The Untold Story of the East German Secret Police (Book by John Koehler who had his hands deep in the secret information jar)

    The picture in this article has been taken from the beautiful photogallery on the Denver Post.

  • Morocco on the Road

    Follow us in Morocco through this gallery…get yourself immersed in the Blue City, lost in the labyrinthine Souq in Fes,  frozen on the mountain chains of the Atlas and soaked in the desert sand. Morocco boasts of merging in the same land so many different sights, its variety will astonishes you.

  • A few things to know before going to Iceland

    Weather in Iceland and What to Wear

    Obviously the main concern is “how will the weather be”? All we can say is: be prepared and flexible. Generally in summer temperatures don’t go above 15°C but can also drop and fluctuate very quickly. I spent most of the time in t-shirt and hiking gilet (like this, very useful!) but I also had to wear my winter jacket at times and Martina made good use of her Icelandic woollen sweater.
    Layers are fundamental to quickly adapt to the temperature variations and, considering the amount of rain, an external waterproof layer and waterproof shoes (or at the very least water resistant) are mandatory.
    There is a say that goes “if you don’t like the weather in Iceland wait 5 minutes” which, according to our experience, is true only if you don’t like the sun. However when it comes out can be quite strong so a sun cream is advised, especially if you too come from a sun-deprived country.
    Check the official weather website for precipitation and wind conditions.

    Prices: is Iceland so Expensive?

    Nevermind the obnoxious food, the wild animals the hair-rising roads and the extreme weather, the aspect that scares most people of Iceland is its prices. But is Iceland really so expensive?
    Sadly the answer is yes. Car rental and accommodation nearly bled us dry. Eating out is expensive but still less than drinking out. Supermarkets such as Bonus or Nettò have similar prices to the UK even if such products as meat, fish and diary, are incredibly expensive. A pack of 8 slices of cheese (£2.5 at Sainsburys) comes for £7.
    Only the gas price was acceptable (About 251 ISK which is close to £1.30) and so for the tickets for most attractions and pools which normally for £3-4.

    Currency and Credit Cards

    The currency here is the Icelandic Krona (pl. Kronur) which, at the time of writing, is roughly 200ISK for £1. Card payments here are widely accepted, in some remote gas stations it is the only way to pay for fuel, so you’d better have one handy.
    Remember that if you spend 4.000ISK or more in a “tax free” shop you can get tax back!

    Food: the Icelandic Cuisine

    The local cuisine has always an important role travels, both for the curiosity of tasting something different and for getting close to such a relevant aspect of the local culture.
    In Iceland we found it to be nearly non-existent. Most of restaurants are limited to a choice of pizza and hamburgers, and there is virtually no trace of the fish and seafood that they seem to be relentlessly fishing. This is why we are so glad we brought our food from home, even if we managed to find a couple of nice restaurants.
    And yes, we tried the hakarl, the rotten shark… and I liked it (even if Martina doesn’t quite agree).

    Booze in Iceland

    Maybe because I live in England but I was shocked by how expensive booze is and how scarcely available. You can’t even find it at the supermarket (no, those beer cans are alcohol-free).
    What do they do during those dark winter days? Or during those long sleepless summer nights? I don’t have an answer to this but for buying beers the best option is Vínbúðin, state-run stores that can usually be found in main shopping centres. The prices are OK, and you get the chance to try some local brew.
    Remember that there is a duty-free shop both in the arrivals and departures at the airport, where booze costs half price or less.

    Pools: not just Blue Lagoon

    We didn’t go to the blue lagoon, we just didn’t want to part with €35 per person for a luxury tourism attraction.

    Geothermal heated pools are found everywhere in the country and serve pretty much the purpose of the pubs in the UK: people go there to relax, chat and socialize. The only difference, and downside, is that they don’t get drunk.

    Almost every decent sized town has its pools and the entrance is usually between 400-600ISK. If you want something that looks like the blue lagoon there is a valid alternative near Mývatn.
    It’s important to always thoroughly shower, without costume, before entering the pools.

  • Iceland on the Road: Our Travel Tips

    Roads

    roads

    Gravel road to Dettifoss

    I’ve read so many fearsome accounts on the Icelandic roads that, as soon as we left the modern area of Reykjavik and its smooth streets we braced ourselves expecting some twisted bumpy tracks.
    Now, it might be because I learnt to drive on mountains and unpaved roads, but I didn’t find it too hard to drive around Iceland. Also we haven’t driven on daily basis for many years now so we can no longer consider ourselves experienced and skilled drivers. The ring road is not a proper motorway but it’s a slick ride, being unpaved only for a short section on the south-east, and the other secondary roads are even easier: they might be a bit more narrow and have some potholes more but you are likely to be there by yourself so… no pressure.
    The only road we quite struggled to drive through, and we blessed our 4WD, was the 862 connecting Asbyrgi and Dettifoss, on the west side of the river. Apparently it will be paved soon but the 864 on the other side is apparently much easier.

    Always check the official website for roads conditions.

    Dangers of Icelandic roads

    SIGNS: Eindreð Brù, Blindheað… even if you’re not that fluent in Icelandic you will soon get the meaning of the road signs, the most recurrent of which are: single-lane bridge, blind rise and gravel road, and are often combined in pairs to make your driving experience more exciting.

    ANIMALS: Sheep enjoy grazing at the side of the street, and sometimes relaxing in the middle of it. They will run away as soon as you approach but their reaction can be quite unpredictable. They always travel in trios so make sure that they are all three on the same side. Birds tend to show suicidal tendencies flying a bit too close to speeding cars and, although they won’t mess it up as much as a sheep could, they might cause you to dangerously brake or steer. Keep it cool and don’t speed.

    Cars

    We are not ashamed to admit that we chose our car just because it was the cheapest option for a 4WD and because we found it funny to drive a car called Jimmy (technically it’s Jimny but for us it will always be Jimmy). That’s the extent of our automotive expertise.

    Although very reliable on gravel road and dirt tracks, Jimmy struggled on open, paved road, especially uphill. And tarmac made it incredibly thirsty.

    Jimmy

    Our beloved and noisy “Jimmy”

    Froads

    Now we know what “impassable” means

    Unless the infamous F-roads are a feature of your travel plan I don’t think a 4WD is strictly necessary. We had it easy on the few kms of unpaved road but most of the trip was on tarmac, where I wished I had a more performing and fuel-efficient car.
    Out of curiosity we checked the option of a small camper. A proper one will cost from £250 per day, while a Ford Transit like the one from Happy Campers is much cheaper, but still more expensive than the combined cost of our car and accommodation. If you didn’t book your accommodation in advance and you want maximum freedom and flexibility that could still be a good choice. However you will still have to find a solution for showering (you can use the local pools for that) and cooking, unless you want to splash out lots of money in expensive hot dogs and greasy pizzas.

    Maps

    Forget about Google maps: a classic paper map will never let you down even in the middle of nowhere. A handy book map was way to expensive so we opted for a folding one. I opted for a German one, just few months old: precise, reliable. It was also tear- and water- proof. No wonder they won the world cup.
    However we almost drove an extra 120Km around a peninsula because the shorter cut-through was omitted, and also we would have liked to have more details in some areas.
    If you’re planning a thorough exploration of the country, you’d better opt for the area-specific maps. I’ve done a little research and these maps are the most praised.

    Music

    We have a pile of 20 cds for our road trips, and I obviously let it home. We had to buy a second copy of the Sigur Ròs signature album and a less than remarkable collection of Icelandic Indie music (which still was way better than the radio).
    Such vast landscapes require an ethereal, dilated music reflecting the contrasting calm and violence of nature.
    Post rock bands, like Mogwai or Goodspeed you! Black Emperor, are the obvious choice, and Ágætis Byrjun seems to have been tailored around a trip on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

  • Boat Trip From Mandalay to Bagan

    Boat Trip From Mandalay to Bagan

    The taxi took us along dark roads, gradually dimming to dawn, to the 6.30 ferry to Bagan, docked and boarding passengers. We took a seat buzzing with the last tired and innocuous mosquitoes of the night.

    The first few miles from Mandalay are lined by hills covered with more pagodas than I thought possible, but soon after it’s just flat banks offering an occasional peek into the lives of the sparse river dwellers. With the exception of two simple meals nothing happens for 10 hours. Nothing. A confined space with no mobile coverage or the bliss of modern technology. When was the last time it happened? As scary as it sounds it was liberating and I feel joyful every time I think back to that day.

    A spectacular sunset in Nyaung-U

    We reached Bagan at dusk. The boat turned off the engines as we silently glided in the bay. Black trees and stupas sharply silhouetted against the orange-to-navy-blue hue of the sky, and large bats hovered above us, dancing around the bright full moon.
    This almost surreal poetry was quickly broken by reality as we moored: the boat was swarmed by people grabbing bags to secure passengers for their taxis and in a couple of hectic minutes we were all off board.
    We let this commotion steam off until we’re approached by a man offering a taxi rate that would be probably realistic in New York. We teamed up with a Canadian couple to negotiate, levering on the fact we were almost the last passengers left.

    The rough edges of tourism in Bagan

    The taxi facilitator had been aggressive and hostile, a stark contrast with the kindness we’ve encountered in Mandalay, surely an inappropriate behaviour in the contest. At least we got to destination – which at some point of the drive was no longer obvious – to the guest-house where the reception had unsurprisingly no trace of our booking. Without much effort we got them to accommodate us anyway so we dropped the bags in our room and headed out for dinner. It seemed we arrived at the right time, as dinner was being served in the open area at the entrance of the guest-house. “Can we eat here?” I asked a short man, probably the manager.
    “No.”
    A man of few words, but maybe he misunderstood. With a broad smile, I tried to make myself clear with various food-related synonyms supplemented with the eloquent Italian gesture language.
    “No.”
    That man then proceeded to become my sworn enemy during our stay. Deaf to any request – unless it was for giving him money for a couple of appalling tours – unable to understand or speak English, but mastering it pretty well when he found out we bought the bus tickets to get out of Bagan with another agency.

    Is this how tourism will turn all of Myanmar into? A cynical money machine? Why does it always have to be like this? The inevitable human greed pushes the individual, albeit a small percentage of the whole population, to exploit the visitors, while on the other end the naive tourist facilitates the process allowing this behaviour.

    This costs like a mars bar

    Tea houses: a peaceful haven for hardened stomachs

    But faith in the Burmese people is hard to lose. We reached a tea house, few door down from the Golden Hotel, which would then become my daily provider of meals. The décor was down to the bare essential, concrete floors and plastic chairs, no English was spoken but the guys there were really nice. After being almost scared by our presence they gradually started smiling at us and making us feel welcome, as if we were guests at somebody’s house. There was a sort of local-pub feel, with families gathered there to talk, chill and watch the football match on TV. Premier league was on (apparently is a big thing in Myanmar) and I even pretended to support one of the two teams playing in order to win the favours of the locals. We ordered the only two dishes we managed to understand: Cantonese rice and the best Shan noodles I’ve ever tried. Green tea and peace of mind were on the house.

  • London – Heathrow Airport and Back

    London – Heathrow Airport and Back

    The famous Heathrow airport is located in the western outskirts of London and it’s a massive international hub. It can be reached by tube (Piccadilly line), in zone 6, and has three different stops. Make sure you know which terminal you are flying from before you leave London: moving form one terminal to another might take time!

    London – Heathrow by:

    • Tube
    • Bus
    • Train
    • Taxi
    • Sleeping rough at the airport

    Tube

    As mentioned above, Heathrow is reached by the Piccadilly Line (the dark blue one) that runs across the whole city in a never-ending underground trip. It’s truly a bit of a long journey: from a central station such as Holborn or Covent Garden it takes up to one hour. But it’s also very comfortable as, if you manage to sit, you can dip in your book and relax, and it’s also the cheapest way to get there. Find out more in the getting around London guide:

    • One way ticket: £5,50
    • Oyster card fare (Monday-Friday,  06:30 – 0930 and 16:00 – 1900): £5,00
    • Oyster card fare: (Off-peak) £3,00

    Again, make sure you know which terminal to get off to. At the end of its line the tube splits in two and makes a loop. If you’re on the wrong train you can just get off ad Hounslow and change.

    Bus

    I never dared to take a bus – a proper London red bus not a coach – all the way to Heathrow, but few people I met working at the hostel did it. It’s only a realistic option very early in the morning: the line N9 will take you from Aldwych to the airport, with a hour-and-half long panoramic trip through the city.

    This is the PDF map for the N9 line.

    You can always opt for the National Express services (www.nationalexpress.co.uk), leaving from Victoria Coach Station. The coach has to wade through the London traffic so it might take one hour and a half during peak times.

    Train

    From Paddington station trains regularly leave westbound to Heathrow. It’s a very expensive way to reach the airport, but also the quickest: the Express only takes 15 minutes!

    The standard train service comes for £9,50 (£19 return), you can find more info here: www.heathrowconnect.com

    If you’re in a hurry try the Heathrow Express (www.heathrowexpress.com), the tickets cost from £20 (£34 return) up. Which makes more than £1 a minute for this trip!

    Taxi

    Taxi is obviously an option but, honestly, I don’t see the point, unless you have some heavy luggage and you need to limit the walking distances at a very minimum. It might be a quiet expensive option, and not too fast as it has, just like the bus, work its way through the London streets.

    Sleeping rough in Heathrow

    Early morning flights are always a pain in the neck but, oh coincidence, always the cheapest. Travelling in the weekend might cause you to miss the tube, as the service starts later than during the week. If you don’t want to take the N9 route, or any of the other option available then take the last tube the night before and have a sleep in the airport!

    Terminal 5 is not too bed: padded seats and dim lights. Try to stay as far as possible from the café and the lifts, if you don’t want to be woken up by a noisy buzz and the familiar “doors opening… doors closing“.

  • Hostels in Milan: Where to Sleep?

    Luckily I never had the need of finding a hostel or a cheap hotel in Milan, as the situation is quite unfriendly for the backpackers. Take the hotels out of the equation you have little choice left. It’s also easy to be tricked by those many properties tagging themselves “hostels” that are nothing but aseptic apartments stacked with bunk beds.

    Most of backpackers are inevitably staying at the huge HI hostel that sits in a slightly dodgy area far away from the city centre. I would not recommend to go there unless it’s your only option left. The options, so far, are two brand new youth hostels that have the vibe and the attitude to deserve such name.

    Ostello Bello

    Via Medici, 4 (MM1-3 Duomo, Tram 2-3)
    tel: +39 02 3658 2720; email: booking@ostellobello.com web: www.ostellobello.com
    I can say that this is the first real hostel in Milan. Opened in 2011 and located right in the city centre (few minutes walk from Duomo) is busting with energy and ideas. It’s very pricey, true, but aligned to the milanese standards. It also offers more than just a bed, as they organize small gigs and provide quality food. I often go there to eat something or have a pint of their artisan beer.

    “Everything you need to know about Milan”: Not quite a big book…

    Hostel Colours

    Via Desiderio, 24 (MM2 Lambrate, Tram 33-23, Bus 93-54-81)
    Tel: +39 0236744492; email: info@hostelcolours.com; web: www.hostelcolours.com
    There is a very recently opened hostel in Milan, I’ve seen its sign put up in 2012, and it’s called Hostel Colours. It’s few steps away from Lambrate station, well connected and perfectly located for the University and for the Lambrate Brewery, the Birrificio. It’ll come handy after a night of beer tasting over there.